Why the Catskills?

We spend our vacation in the Catskills every summer. It’s a place like no other, one you have to experience first-hand to fully appreciate. The Catskills is a large area in the southeast portion of New York State. Within that region is the Catskills Park, a mountain preserve which is protected from many – but not all – forms of development under New York law. There are many houses nestled back in the woods – fewer the higher you go - which means there are many roads to access them. The roads are quiet as they service only a handful of homes. The region is densely forested with mature trees averaging 20 metres in height. Farmland occupies the lowlands where openings in the forest permits.

First and foremost, we come here for the great cycling. The Catskills region is mountainous. The valley where we are based lies between the Catskills on the west and the Shawangunk Ridge - famous for its rock climbing - to the east. The higher peaks average in excess of 1000 metres but altitude on its own does not tell the whole story. While the Rocky Mountains or the Alps are much higher, what makes this area unique is the steepness of the roads.

Here we experience the very steepest gradiants that you will find in North America. Add to that the multitude of quiet and astoundingly well-maintained - good quality pavement is the norm here - back roads and you have a veritable cycling mecca. Perhaps this is a misnomer since it seems to be a well-kept secret. However, those who have been here to cycle, usually want to come back. (There are three high-end bike shops within a 50 km radius, which indicates there are serious cyclists who live around here.)

Many cyclists we know are drawn to European destinations for their cycling vacations: most notably Italy, Spain and France. Not having been to any of these places I cannot comment first-hand; though I've seen pictures, photographs rarely do a place justice. Nevertheless, from the reports I have heard about these countries, you had better enjoy long – and I mean long! – gradual climbs and windy descents that require lots of braking. In the Catskills the climbs are shorter and steeper, the descents curve but only occasionally require braking to safely make it through.

If you’re looking for breath-taking vistas, Europe is the place to go. There occasional panoramic views in the Catskills but most often the views are obscured by tall trees. The first time I came here I found it almost claustrophobic in comparison to the wide-open spaces back home. Although it took some getting used to, the forests became one of the big drawing cards for me. The green lush surroundings combined with the heat and humidity in mid-summer makes it feel almost sub-tropical.

Another feature of this area is the roads. Back home there is no shortage of long straight (read “boring”) stretches of road. These lend themselves to pack riding, but here the roads wind, meander and undulate continuously. New Yorkers pay a lot in property tax, which pays for the fresh pavement put down every few years. Some are tar and stone chipped but these surfaces get smoothed out quickly. There is only one sadly neglected roadway that I can think of in the entire region.

While lakes are few, streams – called “Kills”, the Dutch term for creek – are plentiful: Esopus, Fishkill, Peter’s Kill, Plattekill, Peekskill, and the list goes on. The area is renowned for its rivers and streams, many cascading over rocky riverbeds, making the region an angler’s mecca. Many a time we find ourselves grinding up a steep mountain road as the adjacent stream gurgles mockingly in the opposite direction, answering the pull of gravity, toward the valley below.

For our off-bike amusement, the nearby towns, two in particular, offer a wide selection of shops and restaurants, and historic buildings. The narrow sidewalks are frequented by the locals just hanging out or playing music on a summer's evening. One of these towns, New Paltz is a university town full of hippy-types with tattoos, piercings, unusual haircuts and dress intermingled with urban middle-class families. Woodstock is a throw-back to its sixties peace, love and music culture. The two towns have this updated sixties feel in common.

That is a glimpse into the attractions of the area. May you one day get the chance to experience the Catskills for yourself. Other than great road cycling, there is, I have heard, great mountain biking, camping, fishing, rock climbing and hiking.