Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Memories of Morocco - Part X - Ride of the dam

It’s Tuesday morning of the second week in Morocco and we awaken to yet another beautiful day. Being in a valley, the sun has not risen high enough yet to warm the hotel. It is draped in shade and cold enough to see your breath. I have on all my layers – tights, gloves, even shoe covers. I know it will warm up quickly but I don’t care; we are starting on a downhill and it will be chilly.

After a basic breakfast of bread and jam, eggs, juice and tea, we quickly get on the road. After a short climb, we descend roads whose steep drop-offs as the road contours the ever-changing shape of the mountain. Eventually we get to a tropical valley. A river flows past the road surrounded by dense clusters of palms trees. I stop to regroup and notice the warmth of the sun and lack of wind. It's good timing: as the van pulls up some layers are removed before moving on.
Tropical valley
When Abdoul arrives we continue riding through the valley until we come to a left-hand turn. Adboul tells us it’s okay to ride on but to wait at the bottom of the hill. His directions are vague but we wait in another valley at a river crossing. We’ve had our fun and now it’s time to work again climbing and taking in more spectacular views. We get to a cross-roads and have to wait for directions. By now Scotty, Brian, Evelyn, Charmaine and Wei are all standing around wondering where we are heading. None of the locals seem to have French. The van arrives tailing Steve, Donna, Jackie and Mark. We make the required turn and climb again along a road that winds around a rocky precipice.
The crossroads
Eventually a large body of water, unlike anything we have seen in this country, is visible in the distance below. We descend gradually until we arrive at a massive, horse-shoe shaped hydro-electric dam.
Scotty at the dam
Scotty mentioned that lunch was not far after the dam. Once the dam is out of sight, I stop and wait not sure where the van is. Brian and Anne approach and we all wait together. When the passenger van arrives, he says we can proceed. Anne and I ride together for quite some time not seeing the white lunch van. I am getting quite hungry having only eaten bread for breakfast plus an orange and a Cliff block en route. There is a mosque at the top of the next climb that Anne and I ride up to expecting to find the van. But by the top there is no van, and more mountains loom. Anne stops to take a picture and I continue on, my mind set on finding the lunch van.
Endless road
It would be fair to say that by now I am getting pretty frustrated when kilometer after kilometer of climbing does not get me any closer to the lunch stop. Despite the cool start to the day, it has turned out to be one of the hottest days so far. As I approach what looks like the very top, a small vehicle pulls up from behind beeping its horn. The driver says something unintelligible and I ignore him. He pulls up beside me and tries again. This time I can hear the passenger say “Abdoul là-bas!”. It hits me that Abdoul has asked him to pass on a message. So I turn around and head back down.

Soon I meet up with Abdoul who is fit to be tied. In his broken English he asks me if I know where I am going. What am I doing? Do I know how far off route I am? After he finishes his angry rant, we ride back down the mountain together. He stops at a turnoff and shows me where I should have turned. He asks me if I think we rode 10 km past the turn. “AND ALL UP!”, he points out. Not far down the road, the support team is working and the entire group of riders is enjoying lunch under a shady tree. It is hot today and I am thirsty having nearly run out of water. Abdoul reaches for my hand and we ride across the bumpy field together. He puts on his best smile and raises my hand, indicating his victory: what’s lost is now found. 

After another exceptional roadside lunch, we get in the vans for a short drive to the Atlantic Coast. We reach Imessaoune, a small hippie surfing town where we will spend the night.  The hotel is set back from the ocean but the coast is just a short walk down the road. Jackie, Donna and I walk into town to find an ATM. I’m wearing shorts, but the wind blowing off the ocean is cool. This early in the season the surfers are wearing wets. We discover from a local merchant that there is not an ATM anywhere in this town. Donna buys herself an orange juice, Jackie a coffee and me a banana juice at an ocean side cafe.
Jackie and Donna
That evening, Scotty has planned for us to have dinner at a pizzeria where we will treat our support crew to dinner. It is the pizzeria owner’s first night opening for the season. She only makes individual pizzas, which are quite large. Thin-crust vegetarian pizzas are the best but we have lots of left-overs to take back with us.

Tomorrow would be our last day of riding and what a day it would be!

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